DIY Perfumery A-Z: Mastering Essential Terms and Techniques

Perfumers have been practicing the art of blending scents for millennia, and over that period of time have developed their own language and vocabulary to describe the nuance or essence of the topic at hand. Use the list on this page a guide to common perfumers terms you may encounter on your path exploring different perfume recipes. 

Key Terms Every Perfumer Should Know

200 Proof

200 Proof: Refers to a liquid containing at least 99.7% alcohol by volume.  Some suppliers online label denatured alcohol, denatured using other alcohols, as "200 Proof" alcohol that is unfit for human consumption.  Always read the label and listing to ensure you are not buying "denatured alcohol".

Absolute

Absolute: A concentrated, highly aromatic substance extracted from plant materials through solvent extraction. Absolutes are typically derived from delicate flowers (e.g., jasmine, rose) that do not tolerate steam distillation. The solvent extraction method helps preserve the original scent profile of the botanical material, making absolutes essential in perfumery for their intensity and authenticity.

Alcohol Denat

Alcohol Denat (Denatured Alcohol): Denatured alcohol has additives (denaturants) that make it undrinkable. This process allows the alcohol to be used in cosmetics and perfumery without being subject to alcohol taxes. The term "denat" is an abbreviation derived from "denatured." It is commonly used as a solvent in perfumes, where its volatility helps disperse the fragrance.

Aldehyde

Aldehyde: Organic compounds known for their distinctive, often sharp and bright scent, reminiscent of the classic perfumes of the early 20th century. Aldehydes impart a "fizzy," sometimes waxy quality, giving perfumes an uplifting, complex character. They are key in creating both vintage and modern fragrance compositions.

Accord

Accord: A balanced blend of three or more fragrance notes that combine to form a new, unified scent. In perfumery, accords are crafted carefully so that individual components lose their identity, resulting in a harmonious and unique fragrance impression. They are fundamental in creating the multi-layered character of complex perfumes.

Base Notes

Base Notes: The foundation of a fragrance, consisting of long-lasting, heavy molecules such as woods, resins, and musks. These notes evaporate slowly, lingering on the skin for hours, and serve to stabilize and anchor the more volatile top and middle notes in a perfume.

Carrier

Carrier: In DIY perfumery, a carrier is a medium (like jojoba oil or perfumer's alcohol) used to dilute concentrated fragrance components. This not only makes the fragrance blend more skin-friendly but also helps in evenly dispersing the scent, ensuring a smoother application.

Chord

Chord: Similar to an accord, but generally refers to a blend of notes that form distinct sections within the fragrance structure, like top, middle, and base chords. Each chord is a specific arrangement of notes that contributes to the perfume's overall composition and development over time.

Diluent

Diluent: A neutral, non-scented liquid used to dilute fragrance oils and absolutes, reducing their concentration and making them suitable for use on the skin or in products. Ethanol (alcohol) is the most common diluent, but carrier oils like jojoba oil can also serve this purpose, especially in oil-based perfumes.

Expression

Expression: A mechanical method used primarily to extract essential oils from citrus peels (e.g., orange, lemon). This process involves physically pressing the peel to release the oils. Unlike distillation, expression does not involve heat, preserving the natural aroma of the extracted oils. (Correcting the previous definition: Pressing is an older method of extraction but not exclusive to "essential oils"; it's specifically associated with citrus oils.)

Essential Oil

Essential Oil: Highly concentrated, aromatic extracts obtained through steam distillation (or other methods like expression) of plant materials such as flowers, leaves, and roots. Essential oils capture the natural fragrance of the plant and are commonly used in natural perfumery.

Fragrance Oil

Fragrance Oil: A synthetic or semi-synthetic blend of aroma chemicals and sometimes natural ingredients designed to mimic specific scents. For example, rose fragrance oil can be a mixture of synthetic compounds like geraniol and phenylethyl alcohol, sometimes combined with natural rose absolute. Unlike essential oils, fragrance oils are not derived solely from natural sources and can include synthetic materials.

Fragrance Testing Strips

Fragrance Testing Strips: Also known as blotters, these are absorbent paper strips used to test and evaluate individual perfumery ingredients or finished fragrances. Dipping the strip into the perfume allows the scent to be experienced in stages as it evaporates, providing insight into the top, middle, and base notes.

Fixatives

Fixatives: Substances used in perfumery to stabilize and extend the lifespan of volatile fragrance components. Examples include musks, resins, and woods. Fixatives work by slowing the evaporation rate of the more delicate top and middle notes, helping the perfume to maintain its intended scent profile for longer.

Middle Notes

Middle Notes: Also known as "heart notes," these are the core of a perfume's composition, typically lasting longer than the top notes but not as long as the base notes. Common middle notes include floral, fruity, or spicy elements that shape the overall character of the fragrance.

Perfumer's Bases

Perfumer's Bases: Pre-formulated blends of aroma chemicals or natural extracts that serve as foundational elements in fragrance creation. They provide a ready-made building block (like a "base chord") for perfumers, simplifying the process of crafting complex fragrances.

Tincture

Tincture: A natural extraction method where botanical materials (like flowers, herbs, or spices) are soaked in alcohol to draw out their fragrant components. Tinctures are particularly useful for materials that do not easily yield essential oils. They are commonly used in homemade perfumes to introduce unique, complex scents into the blend.

Top (Head) Notes

Top (Head) Notes: The initial scent of a perfume that is detected upon application. Typically composed of light, volatile ingredients like citrus or herbal notes, they create the first impression of the fragrance but evaporate relatively quickly.